About this Guide

Pinout description for the Innovate Motorsports LM-1 + Auxbox combo.

Step 1: Identifying the pinouts of an OBD-1 Civic.

---

Well.. three hours of life wasted looking at OBD-1 wiring diagram while figuring how to tap the wires into the jumper harness.

This is a partial writeup, and hopefully the innovate techies can pointout errors and help me correct them, and post it as a help article or something.

THIS IS NOT FOR OBD-2 EKs/7th Gen Civics!
If someone installs one, I hope he makes a writeup like this as well.

For a beginner like me, the LM-1 and Auxbox is not so straightforward to wire, as the information given are generic, and meant for all cars.

So here's a writeup for an OBD-1 honda car, which the sensors are sameacross the models (I think so, but better check them if you're wiringthem on an OBD-1 accord or something.) Some should find this an interesting read I hope, and hopefully he can check if I made an error anywhere.

You can read some of the questions I asked on the innovate forums before attempting this, it was quite an experience as well.

Since I'm doing it on a jumper harness, I didn't note the colour, so Ijust counted the pins based on the ECU wiring diagram off the hondaworkshop manual. I took the color off a OBD-1 schematic chart inhonda-tech, so it may differ for cars using the RHD conversion and JDMwire harnesses, BEWARE!)

Note: Please let me know of errors and I will add/modify it as necessary

The pins involved are: (in sets, easier to wire one sensor at a time IMO.
__________________________________________________ _____________

A1 injector -ve terminal.
brown
(this is for duty cycle reading)

Note, use Ch2 (or any other channel that's programmable to read duty cycle on the auxbox, )

Remember to use LM programmer to configure the Auxbox sensor inputsbefore you wire these. According to Klattin from Innovate, the Auxboxcan tolerate up to 40V, but can only digitise 0-5V. Injectors are 12V,so obviously you do not want to mix this up with the sensor wires. Noground is needed to get a reading in my case, as I had LM-1 grounded tothe chassis.

Thanks to HC_CDC and JZZ30 in Innovate forums for pointing out the relevant articles to me.

This has been tested and confirmed to be 100% working. Just remember to select the negative pulse edge in the Auxbox LMA-3 Programmer when programming the input channels.
__________________________________________________ _____________

A21 rpm signal.
red/green
(this is your tach/rpm output.. no ground needed at the -ve point onthe auxbox as LM-1/Auxbox uses the cigarette lighter ground. I thinkit's possible to wire the ground to body or engine block as innovaterecommends it, but I didn't do it that way because I'm too f**king lazyto drag an extra ground wire through the firewall to the engine block.

This is wired into the Auxbox Ch1 +ve terminal. As idiot-proof as wiring an aftermarket tach.
__________________________________________________ ______________

D11 tps signal
light green OR red/black (again, I counted pins, so I didn't note the colour)
(this is your throttle position sensor output, it's a +ve terminal)
A funny thing happened during this stage, as I unplugged my TPS sensorwhile setting it, and for got to plug it back in.. I didn't get thenear 5V at WOT and I actually thought that new fangled digitalmultimeter got whacked... I took my old vintage analogue one andtested, no go also..

I'm starting to get dizzy from crouching down under the dash.. LOL.

Then my mech pointed out that I forgot to plug the TPS sensor back in..LOL... an unplugged TPS sensor doesn't throw a checklight..interesting, that one.

Depending on what you set the auxbox to, this can be any of the other 3channels OTHER than Ch1 and Ch2 (or two, if you wired the thermocouplewire which is too damn short for EGT readings since it needs to be onthe headers, which are at the FRONT of the car, as opposed to otherswith exhaust ports facing the firewall.)
__________________________________________________ ______________

D17 MAP sensor
white (civic)
white/blue(integra)
(The manifold air pressure sensor. This measures the vaccuum present(and boost, if set in the logworks, and you didn't use a MAP bypass orsomething.)
__________________________________________________ ______________

D15 IAT sensor
red/yellow
(this is your intake air temp sensor, using the built in logworks andthe map sensor, you can calculate volume of air entering the engine..still unfamiliar with this though, so if a fellow honda person alreadymanages to do this in logworks, appreciate any help.

It also requires that I measure the resistance of the sensor in 3different temps, get resistance, find out the load resistor, wire itup, enter the 3 values I got from the test, and that's where I'm stuck.My mech says that 0deg and room temp shouldn't be a problem, but 100degboiling temp might not be good for the plastic.

So at the moment, this one remains unwired till I get some answers in the Innovate forums.

D13 ECT sensor
Engine coolant temp sensor, or known as 'water-temp' here.
red/white or yellow/blue
Like the IAT, you need to set the voltage increments in logworks thermistorcalc, asthe temp versus voltage curve isn't linear. All temp sensors are likethat, which is why ECT and IAT sensors will be left for last.

This one, I need to detach the ECT sensor, which is not really located at a convenient location. So leaving this one unwired (for now) as well.
__________________________________________________ ______________

D14 Narrowband O2 signal wire
white or white/red
This is for mounting the Bosch LSU-4 into the header O2 bung.. I willnot use the narrowband, so the analogue 1 out from the LM1 will gohere. Grounding is not sure yet, I'll pull a ground wire to A26 asnecessary. after all it's a sub 3V output. I think it's 1.5-2V maxthereabouts, but that's from my head, need to refer LM-1 analogueoutput settings, since the factory defaults for analogue 1 output isfor narrowband 02 sensor already.

My only worry for now is that the unconnected 02 heater power might throw a checklight. In my case, hondata allows turning off 02 heater circuit, so no problems here for me.

All grounds are grounded via LM-1, so don't bother with CH-x (-ve) ports, as they are for ground difference compensation. So far, it works well enough for me.